Return to Nashville

I got home at 9:25am Wednesday morning from my Himalayan trekking trip in the Everest Region of Nepal.

On the return trip, we had a 24 hour layover in Bangkok, Thailand; and had a day there to explore Bangkok. We stayed at the Sheraton Grand downtown, listened to some fabulous jazz that evening, and the next day, explored the town as much as time would allow. We took a train to the river, and a private 'James Bond' type boat up the river to see the Royal Palace. Unfortunately, the Royal Palace was closed because the King's sister had died and a ceremony was underway. So, we just negotiated a taxi back to the hotel (for only 200 Baht or about $6 bucks), had lunch at an excellent Italian restaurant in the hotel, and managed to get in a 30 minute Thai massage before heading to the International Airport for our flight at 7:30pm.

After traveling halfway around the world, getting home and seeing my wife Sheila was a most happy occasion. We spent the day alone together as I recuperated from jet lag; she made me take an hour nap. We grilled Fillet Mignon and a sweet potato for dinner, and retired at 8pm for a long night of needed sleep.

A 18-day trip which includes trekking through the Himalayan mountains to EBC makes a positive impact on your life. I hope to make the most of it.

Mike

Everest Base Camp Success

October 20, 2008

Kathmandu, Nepal

On October 16th five of us (original team of 7) made it to EBC, elevation 17,400 ft, at about 1pm and stayed until 2pm. At that time of day, it wasn’t 0 degrees as we expected but in the 30s and nice. We saw tents, the Khumbu Icefalls, and the start of the route for those who summit Everest. The next morning however was cold, in the teens, when three of us got up at 5am and climbed Kalapatar, elevation 18,197 ft. That morning I wore my ski suit and stayed warm, but it was a workout.

Kalapatar is popular because it has a better view of Everest for taking pictures. Again, that climb was exhausting because of the cold, high altitude and steep incline, but three of us made it up and got the pictures.

Thereafter, we descended Kalapatar, had breakfast, and then begin our return trekking trip. Altogether, we trekked 9 days in the Himalayans. It took us 7 days to ascent from Lukla Airport to EBC, but it only took us 2 days to descend most of the way back to Shyangboche. One, we were going downhill most of the way; and two, the lower altitude provided better oxygen. I heard that at 18,000 ft. we were only breathing 50% oxygen; at EBC, 52%.

Alone the way, we passed through a village named Pangboche on the 17th. They boast a 600 year old Buddhist Monastery. We heard the beating of a drum. The next day, we arrived in Kumgjung and I saw the most beautiful mountain scene of my life. That’s where they’ve built the Everest Hotel at an elevation of about 12,000 ft.

We stayed the night in Shyangboche and left the Himalayans by helicopter back to Kathmandu, about an hour travel. We stayed last night at the Crown Plaza, a 5 star hotel. After over a week of no shower, I immediately headed for the showers and steam room. Afterwards, I had a cheeseburger for lunch and it was like heaven.

We got to eat dinner at a Nepal couple’s home last night, Bishuwa and Remilla. They are friends of Ed Smith whom he met on the last trip here three years ago. They run Sheppard Trekking, the outfit we used to guide us on our trek to EBC.

Today, Monday, we start making our way home to Nashville; flying to Bangkok, then Los Angeles, then back to Nashville on Wednesday. This trip has been successful; however, I eagerly look forward to being on U.S. soil again after visiting a third world country like Nepal.

I’ve concluded this trip that with all its issues, the United States can’t be beat when compared with about any other country in the world.

Mike

Namche Bazaar

We are in Namche Bazaar, Nepal. Elevation 11,200 ft. Hiked two hard days and loved it! This is better than what I dreamed, so beautiful. It's a challenge with the altitude. Ed Smith and Ann Bortz on our team are staying here for a week Namche and only 5 of us will continue on.

Nepalese people are wonderful and the scenery is amazing. Nice weather too. But cold in mornings and evenings.

We arrived yesterday in Lukla and hiked almost 8 hours to Monju, where we spend the night. I've met people from Ireland, England, Scotland, Canada, Germany, and France on the trail. Lots of people on the trail because of the backup from the crashed plane Wednesday morning. Lots got out the same day we did on Friday, so the trail and the lodges are busy.

The Everest Region is a world attraction and now I see why. It's both challenging and gorgeous. We got our first glimpse of Everest today hiking up the Namche trail. It's majestic even from this far away. I can't wait to see it closer.

Ann Bortz on our team rented a horse today to take her up the Namche hill. We're all wearing heavy duty hiking boots and using trekking poles, but the locals (porters and guides) often pass you by in tennis shoes and no poles, plus they carry huge loads on their backs. They grew up that way and are used to the altitude and it shows. They're incredible trekkers.

Our plans are to skip a rest day here tomorrow and continue to the next village. I think it is called Devuche. Today was Saturday and market day in Namche Bazaar, so we went shopping. I bought some jewelry for Sheila made in Tibet, some prayer flags (very popular here) and a Yak bell as a souvenir. Yaks are used to carry loads on the trails and we must pass two dozen during a hike day. You wouldn't believe how they can climb the trail. The bells let you know they are coming and you better step aside because they have big horns. They use the Yak dung to burn as fuel. They are hard workers and have made a good life in the mountains over the centuries. The lodges we stay at are not unlike a resort setting. The climate is wonderful and a tea house has a patio where you sit and sip milk tea and view the 20,000 ft. mountains around you. The waterfalls are plentiful as we trek along the river onward.

The next village that has Internet cafe is Pheriche and I hope to blog again with more news. We stay in a nice place called the White Yak and take a rest day there, which is important because it is at an altitude of 16,000 ft.

Warm Regards,

Mike

Arrival on 07-10-08

The date is October 7, 2008. Day first, then month, then year is how the Nepalese write the date. I learned this when filling out immigration forms for my two week Visa and when I exchanged my dollars into Rupees with cashier's checks. The exchange rate was 73 rupees per $1 US Dollar.

The purpose of my trip here in Kathmandu, Nepal is to trek with six other Tennesseans to Everest Base Camp (EBC). The team is Ed Smith, Mark and Ann Bortz, Wayne Cole, Doug Perry, and David Kiern, our videographer. All but Doug and I are from Williamson County. Interestedly, David Kiern is shooting a film documentary on our trip.

Upon arrival in Kathmandu, our dinner meal was at a restaurant called Fire and Ice, a cool pizza place. Walking 5-6 blocks to get there wasn't without excitement and risk. People, motorcycles, small cars zipped in & out around you at the crossroads. Perhaps the best way to describe traffic here is organized chaos. We rarely use our horns in the U.S., but here they wear them out as they weave in and through traffic and around the many people (approximately $2 million in Kathmandu alone).

We're supposed to catch our 19 person small plane flight in the morning at 7:30am to Lukla where we'll begun our ascent to EBC. Flights are notorious for delays because of the fog/clouds at Lukla airport at about 9,000 ft elevation. Sir Edmund Hillary, the first person along with local guide, Tenseng Norgay, summits Everest, and later built the air strip near Lukla to make trekking here more convenient to the Everest region. Trekking here has grown annually since.

Lukla is 9,180 ft in altitude. We'll immediately hike to Namche Bazaar to an elevation of 11,285 ft. and spend the night and a rest day to get used to the higher altitude. Along the way to EBC we'll reach a top altitude of just over 18,000 ft. Altitude sickness is the risk going that high and especially if ascending too fast. If you get really sick, it's important to descend, even at night.

I hope after traveling all this way to make EBC a conquest, instead of it conquering me. Nevertheless, trekkers here have indicated how good the route is, the views, and specifically the people along the way (simple and honest).

I'm sure I won't be disappointed.

Warm Regards,

Mike

Next Flight

We had a good yesterday in Kathmandu after recovering from the shock of the Yedi Airlines plane crash that ocurred Wed. morning. Our local travel guide, Bishwa, over here said it was the same flight that we were originally supposed to take before being bumped. Thank you for praying to calm our nerves, because we hope to catch a flight ASAP to Lukla when able and see the great mountains and Sherpa culture up close.

Meanwhile, I've been learning as much about the Hindu and Buddhist religion of the Nepalese people in the region with my time.

Nepal has 25 million people and 80% live in rural areas (mountains) and only about 20% live in cities/suburbs. Although I've never been there to India, Kathmandu reminds me of Calcutta, India with many poor people as you would expect to find in a third world country. Beggars are plentiful whenever we go into the city. Yesterday we ventured out to a temple area that actually held sacrifices of live animals that morning. There's a big festival going on this week and all kinds of strange goings on. David Kiern of our group is shooting a video of our expedition and got some great footage and recordings from the locals on why they sacrifice and how many gods they have (2 million he said) to serve. On a positive note, we've learned about the spread of Christianity in Nepal from our 'travel guide' who is also a pastor and church planter. He shared his story with us this morning after breakfast and it was fascinating testimonial to his faith and vision for the people in the region. He and his wife's ministry is called New Life Nepal. In only two years, he and his wife , Rimela, have been instrumental in planting 56 Churches in people's homes.

In closing, we are scheduled to either catch a plane to Lukla at 6:30am in the morning, and if that fails again, we have a helicopter reservation, so surely by this time tomorrow, I'll be in the mountains trekking.

Warmest Regards,

Mike

Everest Region Napal on 10-8-2008

Today is Wednesday and our group got up at 5:30am this morning to catch our flight to Lukla from Kathmandu. Once we arrived at the airport, it was crazy with everyone trying to catch a flight on one of the small planes to Lukla. We were supposed to be on the 8:00am flight, but Wayne in our group forgot his camera so our guide drove 20 minutes back to the Yak and Yeti Hotel to get it. You don't want to be trekking through these gorgeous mountains without your camera. Probably because of this we were late getting organized and had to wait until 9:20am to catch the next Yeti Airline Flight. Word came back about 9am that all flight were cancelled for the rest of the day. We assumed this was because after morning time, clouds begin to move in and pilots can't see well enough to land in Lukla. Back at the hotel we learned from CNN Breaking News that one of those Yeti Airlines flights crashed into a cliff killing eighteen people. Twelve were Germans which we might have met in the hotel elevator the day before. I talked with a Nepal guide as I was checking into the hotel who said that he thought the first two planes made it and a third plane had to turn around and return to Kathmandu - a 45 min. flight one way. Later we learned that it was the 2nd plane here that hit a cliff and burned.

I'll blog again as soon as I know something more about our plans.

Warmest Regards,

Mike